Chaotic
abstract - a “pleasing mess”!
Encourage imaginative vision, where you “find” forms in the wax
*images that appear without preconception. ABSTRACTS ~ encourage use of the above four iron techniques
with the 3 primary colours. Wax colours to use are:
Show differing
viscosities & explain! Advise exploration of different types of strokes,
(smoothing, lifting, edge work and point work). Encourage observation of how the colours quickly mix,
practise of how to keep colours as clean as possible i.e. avoid over-mixing,
etc.
Patterned
abstract - “repeated marks and forms”
Patterns ~ make rhythmic repeat marks across the
entire card to form bands of pattern effect. Careful not to wipe out
the parts that you want to keep as you apply the next band of pattern.
This exercise encourages a relaxed and more natural use of the iron
as a tool and gives the user practise whilst providing varied but positive
results. Work with the 3 primary colours for the test piece, but also
experiment with any other colour combinations that appeal.
Wax colours to use are:
Show differing
viscosities & explain!
Advise exploration of different types of strokes,
and experimentation of a variety of patterns - How many types can you
produce in 5 minutes?
Encourage experimentation and discovery of different
repeatable marks possible with the irons surface and edges
Mandala -
a “structured pattern” that expands uniformly -
reflected like a kaleidoscope - use A5 squared card for this exercise.
It can be done best on any uniform shape that has equal sides - triangle,
circle, octogon, etc.
* Used for focus and meditation in the spiritual life of many Eastern Countries.
Wax colours to use are:
Show differing
viscosities & explain!
Advise careful cleaning of the iron when moving from
darker areas back into lighter coloured ones.
Encourage experiments with different pattern combinations to
make this form of image inspiring as well as light filled - use light or
bright colours in the center - keep colours as clean as possible i.e. avoid
over-mixing, etc.
Simple
Landscape - a quick and easy exercise that provides:
1. opportunity to check the
correct temperature of the iron
2. each of the 4 main iron strokes
3. compilation and structure of a landscape
Wax colours to use are:
Show "testing
the iron's temperature" using this colour. The No.8 Blue Green colour
is easy to use & is an unnatural / chemical looking colour.
Important * Do each action once only.
a. Load iron base with wax for landscape. Be prepared
to demonstrate a reverse activity for left handers!
b. Place iron flat on card with point at left side and move iron right to spread
wax onto card surface. LIGHTLY!!
c. cover the lower half of wax with iron flat and lift iron (from edge on wax)
as if opening a box - fairly quickly.
d. Use edge of iron to push through the wax & create lines in a group for
grasses. “..like an ice-skate”.
e. use iron tip to get a spot of wax. Spot onto card then clean tip. Put tip
on spot & “flick” in one direction, replace tip on spot & “flick” in
other direction for the bird.
THE 3 BAND LANDSCAPE STRUCTURE IS
NOW EVIDENT. LIGHT + DISTANCE + FORGROUND
(& DETAILS).
2
Colour Landscape - a more realistic landscape with a blended natural
colouring and more subtle forms.
Wax colours to use are:
Teaches:
* ZIG-ZAG LANDSCAPE -
natural colour & full effect *INTRODUCTION OF HAND-HELD DABBING.
Method Notes:
a. Load iron with No.23 Olive Green & edge stripe
of No.14 Yellow Brown
b. Do the Zigzag smoothing stroke ~ across, back, across always working downwards.
- DON’T PRESS HARD ~ INSTEAD
GENTLY GLIDE THE IRON OVER THE WAX
- USE SUFFICIENT WAX
- GLIDE THE IRON ALMOST COMPLETELY OFF THE OTHER EDGE
OF THE CARD
- ENSURE IRON’S TOP EDGE IS CARRYING WAX OR SMUDGING
WILL RESULT ON HORIZON
- CHECK THE IRON IS NOT TOO HOT (No
8 blue green should slowly dribble down the iron)
c. Hand-lift and dab in foreground ~ lightly lift card
with thumb on front and fingers behind. Don’t buckle the card.
With iron facing the lifted card let bottom edge of card touch iron base. Gently
but swiftly “spring” the card on and off the iron base WITHOUT
THE TOP IRON EDGE MAKING CONTACT ~ no edge marks
?? GOOD...
d. Make grasses less regular, not all emerging from one point on the card.
Encourage clumps, uneven lengths, some curved & wavy forms .attention;
the ice-skate turns & cuts a path so don’t slide sideways or wide
lines result.
e. the bird ~ remember that the size of the wax spot on the card determines
the size of the resultant bird. If difficulties arise try applying
the wax spot then “cleaning off the iron’s tip” before flicking
out the wings.
FINAL NOTE ~ GET THIS SET
OF TECHNIQUES MASTERED 80% BEFORE MOVING ON.
Flat
horizon line - one of the four main types to learn
Wax colours to use are:
Method Notes: Use the iron's straight edge to create the best
flat horizons - slide the iron along with the straight edge at the top
of your land area.
For larger images with longer straight lines use a straight edge like
a piece of cornice moulding, so that the iron is guided by it but the
molten wax does not actually touch or contact it. A straight rule sitting
on a wax block at either end will also work well - just be sure to avoid
molten wax touching it!
High
Hill horizon - one of the four main types to learn
Wax colours to use are:
Method Notes: Use the iron's tip which is loaded a bit
like a knife spreading runny butter over the card. Start at the left side(right
handed) and create a nice smooth round and erratic graph form as you go
across the length of the card, forming a high hill horizon.
Low
Hills horizon - one of the four main types to learn
Wax colours to use are:
Method Notes: Use the iron's curved edge to create mounded forms
that are very effective for low hill and rolling landscapes.
If you run out of wax simply put more on adn re-apply.
Peaked
Mountians - one of the four main types to learn
Wax colours to use are:
Method Notes: Use the iron's curve up on edge (as if doing grasses),
and load the front triangle area with liquid colour, then push sideways
like a knife spreading butter, across the card, in the form of a sharp
pointed graph.
At the start it is often difficult to avoid repetative zig-zag-zig-zag
forms that are the same "saw-tooth" marks over and over. It can
help to roughly draw an erratic peaked graph as a guide. Do this on the
waste paper so that it is visible just above the actual painting card area,
then let your eye follow it as your hand moves the iron.
Rubbed
Sky & added colour harmony in foreground reflecting
the sky colours
Colours Used:
Method:
Land: Paint a Zigzag 2
colour landscape and put in the initial hand-held dabbing.
SKY: Use No.12 Red Violet
and No.18 Prussian Blue.
Get blocks and “clean & soften” one
edge of the block.
Apply the Prussian Blue to the top 50% of the sky area VERY LIGHTLY AND EVENLY.
Apply the Red violet to overlap part of the blue and extend down to the horizon
line at the edges BUT LEAVE AN AREA OF CLEAN WHITE CARD IN THE MIDDLE OF THE
HORIZON.
Rub hard to smudge into an even “light”.
Careful not to buckle the card. If too much wax, wipe some off using
tissue.
Melt a small scribble of these 2 colours
onto the iron and dab (hand-held) into the foreground to give a subtle
colour harmony with the sky. Too much looks poor. Too little can create
banded and disjointed images.
Add grass details and the bird.
Note: For older hands and
weaker fingers this rubbing can be difficult.
Full
Ironed Landscape - doing the sky, land
and complete image just using the iron.
Colours Used:
Method Notes:
SKY:
a. Load the iron with plenty of white and
then put in colour bands.
b. spread wax onto card to keep colours in clean
bands.
c. re-work until an acceptable result occurs.
- REMEMBER
- Plenty of (white) wax for fluid workability
- Glide the iron as lightly as possible.
- If too dark go over with more light wax
(white, pastels or clear)
- Faster Movement for Texture = storm /
wind
- Slowly
Smooth horizontal = calm / peaceful
Land:
d. Continue by adding zigzag landscape cutting just
through the sky wax on the horizon.
e. Hand-held dab & add dark versions
of the sky colours to make colour harmony.
f. Add grasses, bird and also
spots of sky colours to foreground as flowers.
Congratulations on your first full painting.
What is this? ~ a landscape? ~
No, just a bit of card with some wax on. In fact it is an illusion
of a landscape, merely a representation. In order to produce good illusion
you must have a good understanding of the subject.
SPEND TIME LOOKING AT REALITY!
Fabric
Print - CROSS-OVER TO FABRIC -
Fabric print of a full A6 landscape onto poly cotton - outlining the
basic principles of fabric usage, durability, etc.
Colours Used:
Method Notes:
a. Paint another full iron landscape and try not to get “blobs” for
birds or flowers.
- TRY TO MAKE THE
WAX COATING ON THE CARD A GOOD EVEN LAYER OF COLOUR ~ VITAL
FOR A DEFINITE & UNIFORM PRINT.
Printing onto the fabric.
- Clean under-paper covered in tissue (to
provide absorbency & mop up any wax that penetrates the fabric)
- Fabric face-up then place wax image to
be printed in position face down
- Cover with tissue and iron pressing hard
with a slightly hotter iron.
- Peel up part of the waxed card to check
how the image is transferring. When transferred remove the wax card
before it cools. If some of the wax has not transferred carefully replace
the wax image and re-iron.
WASHABILITY ~ Not
recommended for contact items (clothing/furnishings
although Tee Shirts can work pretty well if washed carefully).
PRINT ONTO ANY FABRIC FROM SILK
TO AIDA
- the
finer the weave the finer the print
- the finer the fabric the more absorbent
under-tissue you need ( to "mop up" excess wax).
IDEAL UNWASHED FOR ANY DECORATIVE
AND CREATIVE TEXTILE USE. EMBROIDERY BY HAND & MACHINE,
COLLAGE, CROSS-STITCH, MONTAGE, WALL-HANGING QUILTS, ETC.
Stylus & Scriber
Introduction - just doodle on a piece of card to explore
what you can do with the stylus and scriber
STYLUS Try
:
- Writing
- Dragonflies - flick outwards from
a spot of wax to get sharp tips to the wings
- Castle Spires - make them heavier
and bigger at the base and ensure the spires are parallel with the
vertical edge of the card - then they will look upright. Again, flick
from a spot of wax at the top of your tower to get a slim and sharp
spire.
- Flowers, fences, trees, etc.
- Explore colour mixing on a card palette, then
picking up from previously mixed colours - these palettes can be
kept for years and enable many unique colours to be created in small
amounts.
SCRIBER Try:
- Using the pointed end to sign your work
- the bladed end to create a pathway
- the pointed end to outline shapes and effects
in an iron abstract
- hatching & drawing in the wax (like
scraper board)
Indirect
Wax Transfer Castles - using a waxed tissue
to apply the wax colour by pressing the heated iron through the
tissue - Indirect wax transfer for stones in water with dragonflies
Wax colours to use are:
a variation is to also use
Method Notes:
- Apply wax to a piece of 2 ply tissue by covering
the front 1/3rd of the iron with one colour at a time and wiping
onto the tissue. Each colour should partially overlap its neighbor
and all 3 colours overlap in the center area.Tear off excess tissue.
- Put the waxed side of your tissue onto the painting
card.
- Place the curved edge of the iron onto the tissue and
make some small and some longer "graph" type
strokes, keeping
as parallel with the card's vertical edge as possible.
The longest strokes will be the castle towers / spires.
- PRESS HARD DOWN ON THE EDGE TO “SQUASH” WAX
THROUGH & ONTO THE CARD.
- Work to make a nice central castle body with two
or three taller spires.
- Use the iron tip to drag down over the tissue
to create a hill form for the castle to stand upon
- Use you finger to smudge down through the hill
area, adding shading and body as the wax spreads softly over the
white card.
- Add a couple of birds with the Stylus tip and a
small path with the Scribing tool.
Indirect
Wax Transfer pools - using a waxed tissue
to apply the wax colour by pressing the heated iron through the
tissue - Indirect wax transfer for stones in water with dragonflies
Wax colours to use are:
Method Notes:
- Apply wax to a piece of 2 ply tissue by covering
the front 1/3rd of the iron with one colour at a time and wiping
onto the tissue. Each colour should partially overlap its neighbor
and all 3 colours overlap in the center area.Tear off excess
tissue.
- Put the waxed side of your tissue onto the painting
card.
- Place the point of iron on tissue with back
edge of base plate lifted about 1” off the surface.
- PRESS HARD AND MOVE THE POINT WITH SMALL VIGEROUS
ACTIONS TO “SQUASH” WAX THROUGH & ONTO
THE CARD.
- Work to make 2 “piles of stones”.
- Rub through the base area of the “stones” with
your finger to create the “water” effect. Keep it
horizontal (parallel to the bottom card edge).
- From small pile of stones use iron edge through
the waxed tissue SLOWLY, to put in grasses / reeds.
- Add a couple of dragonflies (double Decker birds
with a slightly curved body in a different colour!) - try
not to create "stereo-types" where the angle
and size is identical for the dragonflies - vary their
size and rotation.
Fantasy
castles and path - improving
perspective
Wax colours to use are:
-
this No10 Ultra Marine Blue is more liquid than the darker No18
Prussian and mixes well with the No12 Red Violet for this image.
Method Notes:
- Form a zigzag landscape
and TRY TO MAKE ALTERNATE BANDS OF LIGHT & DARK as you work
down the card (hills / valleys). Ideally the top of the land
mass (distant horizon) will be paler than the bottom (foreground).
- Add a castle into a dark foreground area. MAKE
SURE THE SAME COLOUR WAX IS USED SO THAT THE CASTLE APPEARS TO “GROW
OUT OF THE LANDSCAPE” - they are welded together and the
castle form "emerges".
- Add a small version of the same element (castle)
on the horizon, again ensuring that the colour used to weld it
into the landmass is the same hue as the point where it is sited.
Ideally this more distant and smaller castle will also be paler
in hue. * Repeating an element in a smaller version helps
depth and gives the illusion better perspective. Remember, build
the castle using the colour it rests on.
- Insert a path / road way with the scribing tool.
Make sure scraping is done in line with the horizontal edge (parallel
with the base edge of the card). Work down the card, starting
from the distance & getting bigger (wider) as you get “closer” to
the foreground. It is much easier working this way than in reverse. Same
is true for the castles - put in the largest foreground one first!
Fantasy
Scry & Scriber - looking into an abstract
background and developing it into a fantasy image. Encourage
imaginative vision, where you “find” forms in the
wax - images that appear without preconception. Work into these
like scraper board, etching away to embellish and focus an image.
Wax colours to use are:
Method Notes:
- Load wax colours across the iron
in mirrored bands. Middle No.8 Blue green, Next bands No. 12
Red violet, Outer bands No.18 Prussian blue.
- Spread and smooth off the colour
onto card moving the iron parallel to card edges.
- Gently smooth in-line over the wax
always watching for an effect that could be developed into an
image. Use a light stroking movement for best resultant effects.
GO online to see
a VIDEO CLIP FROM QUICK
CARDS - PLEASE BE PATIENT
EXPLAINED FURTHER: Smooth
over in-line to warm the wax ~ PREPARE
FOR THE NEXT SMOOTHING ACTION BUT THIS TIME BREAK THE SUCTION
AT THE BACK END OF THE BASE-PLATE BEFORE STARTING TO PULL
THE IRON OVER THE WAXED CARD. A “TRAILING” EFFECT
SHOULD BE PRODUCED BECAUSE THE BACK EDGE DOES NOT SMOOTH
OUT THE IRREGULAR TRAILS OF WAX THAT NOW “DRIBBLE” OFF
THE UNDERSIDE OF THE IRON.
- Fast = texture
- Slow = smoother
- Drag & lift = Dribbled
textures and effects
- When a good effect appears,
stop iron work and use the scribing tool to develop the image OR
use the stylus to put in details like flowers & dragonflies
etc.
Stamping
with Ink - Combine images with your encaustic backgrounds
- PERMENANT BLACK MARKER PEN, RUBBER
STAMPS with DYE PAD INK, SILHOUETTES & COMPUTER GRAPHICS
Colours Used:
- Make a stamp / other black graphic
image on your painting card. Choose a subject that suits an “ambient” environment
i.e. fish because they live in a blue undefined surrounding,
fairies because they fly in the air, etc.
- Use a good quantity of clear transparent
wax to mix and dilute the colours. Over-paint with any translucent
waxes but NOT OPAQUE COLOURS (don't use white,
pink, grey, or any white + ? mix)
- Having achieved an environment add
details to it but avoid dark wax buildup over the stamped image
area.
- To make the image totally wax oriented use the
stylus to over-paint the stamped image with wax that suits the
subject - e.g. Black / White for the Whales or brown / green
for a tree.
NOTE: Floating or flying subjects are
easiest because they do not have to be tied so visually carefully
into the image. A standing graphic, like a tree or a horse,
MUST HAVE SOME DARKER COLOUR THROUGH ITS FOOT AREA to anchor
it to the ground and to create a solid surface on which to
stand
Alpine Mountians with Rubbed Lake
Colours Used:
Method Notes:
- First create your sky using No.10, 24 and 16
together - try to create realistic light in the sky area
- Now add mountains but use a mixture of the above
sky colours with enough pink and blue in the white to make a
colouring that looks like snowy mountinas when applied. remember
to load the front triangle of your iron & position it at
the left of card(right handers) as if to make grasses with the
edge. Then as wax dribbles down onto the card move slowly across
towards the right and with a gentle and “jerking” manner
move the iron up and down as if drawing a cartoon graph. The
aim is to produce “peaks and valleys” which resemble
high alpine / rocky mountain horizons.
- Get as piece of tissue ready in a rough pad form
so that you can grab it quickly when you will need to in a minute.
- Smooth over the bottom of the mountains and do
a quick bit of dabbing.
NOW ~ Whilst still warm .....
Place the warm card flat on the table, take the rough tissue pad
and quickly but carefully wipe through the soft (still molten) wax, keeping
the wipe parallel to the top / bottom of the card. This gives
a good quick water effect for very little effort. Don't be tempted to wipe
off all the wax as this then looks like a wiped off card! Leaving a few trails
of colour parallel to the bottom of the card makes a more realistic water
effect.
GO
online to see a VIDEO CLIP FROM QUICK
CARDS - PLEASE BE PATIENT
A5 Alpine Mountians with Lake - Full Iron work
...an A5 card with sky, hills, distant trees,
lake, foreground
This is the image that brings together many
of the skills that you have had to master in order to complete the
course so far. Working on an A5 card (double size of the A6) is like
changing gear! Suddenly you need more wax, the card is too big to
hold in your hand, the sky was too big to do in one iron stroke and
so on. Every time you move up a card size this smae feeling is experienced!
But it is time to face a larger peice so that you can start to move
with your own confidence and skill, into new adn exciting images.
Your example does not have to be identical to the
one shown, but please concentrate on getting good light in the
sky (get this part right adn the rest is much easier), a clean
horizon shape, effective water that is done by applying wax like
a sky, but this time underneath the land mass. Finally work to
achieve good colour harmony and balance in the image, so that when
it is polished you look at it and think "That's good".
Colours Used:
- Carefully ensure the work area is clean ~ bigger
work requires a more organised approach
- Turn the iron up to make it a little hotter.
Load the iron for the sky with as much white wax as is safe and
then add the bands of colour. Spread this onto the sky area (TIP:stand
and pull the iron from an outstretched arm towards your body) IF
THERE IS NOT ENOUGH WAX TO COVER THE SKY AREA SIMPLY RELOAD AND
START THE APPLICATION WHERE THE LAST ONE RAN OUT.
- With the iron still a little hotter than usual,
re-work the whole sky area very lightly trying not to over-mix
the colours. When it looks OK stop! If it gets
muddy you can always reapply a little more of the light colours – just
very lightly float them over the existing ones
NOTE : THE QUALITY OF LIGHT
DETERMINES THE FINAL QUALITY OF THE PAINTING, NO
MUDDY SKIES!
- Load and apply the horizon being mindful to
make the best of your sky & it’s light. Choose the
brightest part of the sky and direct the observer’s attention
to that by the way you build the rest of the image - don't recklessly
iron mountins through the nicest light in the sky!
- Work down the card with hills and put in a line
of dabbed effect to represent trees.
BIG CARD TIP:clamp the top edge
ot the painting card close to the table edge (lay your waste
pad on it) so that the land mass area that you need to dab
it hanging over the table edge without you needing to hold
it. Now you can get your free hand under the card to support
it as the iron dabs on and off, thus creating foliage effects
without getting iron marks showing.
- Add ironed water. To do this load the iron exactly
as for the sky but this time turn the card the other way round
and apply the wax to cut through the base of the dabbed trees,
just as if applying a sky. KEEP STROKES PARALLEL TO THE BASE
OF THE CARD. Go over this a couple of times and the result
should look like a reflection of the sky in water.
- Dab on a foreground (see above TIP) remembering
to use strong colours that reflect those used in the sky (the
colour of the light) to create colour harmony.
- add a few details to finish it off if desired,
but don’t over do it!
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